
Na een dubbelzijdig formulier te hebben ingevuld bij het consulaat van Iran, rijden we 15 km door het drukke Istanbul naar het busstation. Dat is op zich al een hele ondernemıng, maar wij belandden ook nog eens in de Grand Bazar!(Doolhof van identieke smalle steegjes). Ook het busstation is een doolhof. Er zijn tientallen busmaatschappijen die ons naar alle uithoeken van Turkije willen brengen. Uiteindelıjk vinden we de goede bus. In 12 uur rijden we door de nacht naar Cappadocie. Het landschap is prachtig en uniek: vulkanisch gesteente dat in de loop der jaren gevormd is tot zogenaamde fairy chimneys. In de rotsen zijn bovendien ruimtes gehakt die fungeerden als opslag, kerk of duivenhok. Duivenmest schijnt goed te zijn voor de oogst.... Nog een week te gaan tot de eclips... Intussen vervelen we ons niet. We wandelen door de prachtige valleien en 'ontdekken' de huisjes in de rotsen. Göreme, het dorpje waar we kamperen, wordt in de zomer bezocht door vele toeristen. Nu staan wij soms alleen of met 1 of 2 anderen op de camping. Heerlijk rustig.
Langzaam zien we de lente komen, zeer welkom! Bloesems komen uit en ook 's nachts kunnen we met 1 trui minder toe. Slapen in de tent wordt dus iets comfortabeler. Wel worden we iedere morgen gewekt door het gezang uit de moskeen. Let wel, dit is om 5 uur! De campinghond jankt het hele riedeltje mee, erg grappig. Een moslimhond! Dan is daar eindelijk de grote dag, 29 maart. Tijdens onze vele wandelingen hebben we uiteraard gezocht naar de ultieme plek om dit wonder te aanschouwen. Gewapend met wijn (ja, van duivenmest), kaas, brood en eclipsbril wachten we ongeduldig af. Wij zitten op een hoge rots en kunnen ver over het landschap kijken. Langzaam kruipt de maan voor de zon. Heel lang is hier niets van te merken. Rond 80% overlap worden schaduwen zachteren valt er een raar soort schemering over het land. Het wordt kouder en het kippenvel van kou en spanning wisselen elkaar af. Lang blijft het licht...tot de volledige eclips. Dit duurt drie volle minuten.Toch hebben we ogen tekort! De zon lijkt veranderd in een zwart gat omgeven door een krans van prachtig licht. Doordat we hoog zitten zien we dat hele horizon (360 graden) rood kleurt. Waanzinnig! Er verschijnen wat grote sterren en planeten. İn de dorpjes beneden gaan de lantaarns aan. Uit het dal klinken kreten van groepen toeristen. Dan wordt het opeens weer licht, wat stiekem toch wel een opluchting is, je weet maar nooit...... Dit is een moment wat we nog lang zullen herinneren.
Dit mooie stuk van Turkije vraagt om verder gezien te worden en we besluiten om ons prachtige plekje op de camping te verlaten. Ürgüp is onze bestemming. Welgeteld 10 km verderop. Het blijkt een mooi stadje. We kijken wat rond, maar de camping is nog gesloten. We fietsen door naar Avanos. Zelfde verhaal........ Door het bergje op, bergje af worden we het toch wel een beetje zat. Het prachtige landschap sleept ons er echter doorheen. Volgende bestemming is een superklein dorpje waar warm water bronnen zijn. Dat blijkteen groot succes. De minicamping is open. De warmwater zwembaden zijn echter nog gesloten. We zijn weer de enige gasten op de camping en we worden werkelijk zeer gastvrij ontvangen. Alhoewel de zwembaden gesloten zijn is een privebad wel mogelijk. Dit blijkt een zeer royaal twee persoonsbad! Enzo, lieve mensen, eindigen wij na deze dag fietsen, in een bad van zo'n 40 graden! Wat een geluk!!
Het kleine dorpje heeft geen winkel, maar een soort van wekelijkse SRV-service, die wij gemist hebben. We worden uitgenodigd voor maaltijden bij de eigenaar van de camping die er op toeziet dat wij werkelijk niets tekort komen. Gastvrijheid staat ook hier zeer hoog in het vaandel. Onze dankbaarheid wordt weggezwaaid met de woorden: ."zo werkt dat hier in Turkije." Iets waar wij in het 'ontwikkelde' Westen nog iets (heel veel) van kunnen leren...
Na twee dagen badderen vertrekken we richting Kayseri waar vandaan we weer een bus terug naar İstanbul zullen nemen. Terug naar het consulaat en heel hard hopen op een visum!
Hier onder nog twee links van websites:
Stella en Joris zijn al 7 maanden onderweg. We ontmoetten ze in Göreme. Vol mooie verhalen over hun ervaringen onderweg. Erg gezellig.
Toshi, the Japanese Cyclist! Grappig Japans mannetje. 23 jaar en al meer dan een jaar onderweg naar het WK ın Duitsland! Alleen!
En nog wat
foto's uit misschien wel het mooiste deel van Turkije...
(eerdere plaatjes via de
fotopagina)
Ha die Sander en Jessica,
Leuk dat je belde die woensdag en ook leuk dat jullie (waarschijnlijk, misschien, hopelijk) het visum voor Iran nou hebben maar waar blijven die nieuwe foto's!!
Ben nieuwsgierig naar het volgende bericht!
Groet vanuit een regenachtig NL
Ja man, waar blijven ze ? ik zei je nog, laat die flessen wijn aan ons over, jullie hebben een belangrijke taak.
Als ze nou echt moeilijk gaan doen voor dat visum, moet je maar zeggen dat je mij kent, gelijk no problema, je gaat op de rode loper tot aan de grens.
Kik wat er daarna gaat gebeuren, weet ik niet, de laatse keer had ik bijzonder veel haast om het land te verlaten.
ha ha, hier regent het niet!Zuiden he !
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